CROSSING THREADS

Based on the research in SILK ROAD FASHION, the project FADENKREUZ – CROSSING THREADS explores the oldest textile techniques and constructions of East Asia and presents them in a sample collection consisting of textiles and tools.

Reconstruction of the trousers IM21 from Yanghai, Turfan, Xinjiang, China. Technology: Yanghai weft twining. © DAI EA // Domenik Schuster

DAI Standort  Eurasia Department, Beijing Branch

Projektart  Teilprojekt einer Verbundforschung

Laufzeit  2023 - 2027

Disziplinen  Ethnoarchäologie, Experimentelle Archäologie, Prähistorische und historische Archäologie

Projektverantwortlicher  Moa Hallgren-Brekenkamp, Prof. Dr. Mayke Wagner

Adresse  Im Dol 2-6 , 14195 Berlin

Email  Moa.Hallgren@dainst.de

Laufzeit  2023 - 2027

Projektart  Teilprojekt einer Verbundforschung

Cluster/Forschungsplan  EA - Ostasien

Fokus  Auswertung (engl.), Objektforschung, Thematische Forschung

Disziplin  Ethnoarchäologie, Experimentelle Archäologie, Prähistorische und historische Archäologie

Methoden  Rekonstruktionen, Digitale Fotografie, Analoge Dokumentation, Analoge zeichnerische Dokumentation, Digitale Dokumentation, Digitale grafische Dokumentation, Experimente, Literaturrecherche, Materialuntersuchungen, Farbstoffuntersuchungen, Gebrauchspurenanalysen, Mikroskopie, Techniken, Herstellungs- und Verarbeitungstechniken, Spinnen, Textilverarbeitung, Weben, Vergleiche

Partner  Chinese Academy of Cultural Heritage (VR China), Museum der autonomen Region der Uiguren Xinjiang (VR China), Academia Turfanica und Museum der Region Turfan (VR China), Museum der Region Hami (VR China), Museum of the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, Hohhot, Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, Nibutani Ainu Culture Museum, Japan

Förderer  Beijing Branch

Schlagworte  Herstellungs- und Verarbeitungstechniken, Textilverarbeitung, Materialien, Organische Materialien, Textilien, Mobile Objekte, Bekleidung, Gewebe, Geräte/Werkzeuge, Webstühle, chinesisch

Projekt-ID  5755

FADENKREUZ - CROSSING THREADS. Textile techniques and constructions in East Asian from 3000 years BP

Textile art and the technologies used to create textile surfaces are part of the world's intangible cultural heritage. As components of clothing, they shape the appearance of most people. Yet their origins and earliest stages of development can rarely be studied because textiles and the equipment used to make them decay without trace in most soils. In the extremely arid regions of Central and East Asia, however, several objects have survived. 

In those regions, the numbers and types of textile constructions in well-preserved archaeological cloths are surprisingly large and diverse. Unusual elements such as an 11-meter-long skirt flounce made of over 500 braided wool threads, woven fabrics with large-scale patterns in weft twining and filigree floral twill tapestry next to flowing colour gradients are examples from the repertoire of fascinating textiles in the clothes found along the Silk Roads, which can only be fully understood through reconstructions.

These and other techniques will get their own public platform with this project. We will provide the ancient technical knowledge with a collection of samples and a database for present and future users interested in textile production and clothing.

Our leitmotif 'fadenkreuz' (engl.: threading cross) is one of the most important terms in weaving terminology. It is a premise and therefore a symbol for the transformation of a mass of threads into the system of a planned structure, practised by every weaver.

Based on research in the SILK ROAD FASHION project, textile constructions are closely examined and made comprehensible and tangible with photos, drawings, videos and reconstructions.  

 

Yanghai weft twining on poncho IM21, Yanghai, Turfan, Xinjiang, China. © DAI EA // Dominic Hosner
Study and documentation of the manufacturing of a traditional Ainu Emushiatsu belt using weft twining technique, Nibutani, Hokkaido, Japan. © DAI EA // Moa Hallgren-Brekenkamp
Study and documentation of the weaving process on a backstrap loom. Weaver in Nibutani, Hokkaido, Japan. © DAI EA // Christian Leipe
The threading cross on the loom. Definition: A threading cross in the warp is formed while warping, in order to maintain the proper order of the warp threads, generally maintained by cross-sticks (Vocabulary of technical terms, Centre International d’Etude des Textiles Anciens, 2021). © DAI EA // Moa Hallgren-Brekenkamp